Advice to New Owners of a Bagheera Bengal Cat/Kitten
by Dr. William H. (Bill) Brown
Educator, researcher, and Bengal cat breeder

Congratulations to You!

Adopting a kitten (or a kitten adopting you!) creates a mutually beneficial relationship between the two of you. To your benefit, according to reported research, petting a cat reduces stress, can actually lower your blood pressure, and helps relieve depression. When your affectionate little kitty curls up in your lap and purrs, any cares or concerns that have been weighing you down will be quickly lifted. What a wonderful, exciting experience it is getting to know a new kitten! Congratulations to you and your kitten on a lifetime of mutual love, respect, companionship, and adventure.

Caring for your Cat

In many respects, owning a cat is like caring for a child. Since cats cannot tell us if anything is amiss, it is our responsibility to monitor their behavior and health. Even though kittens are adorable little bundles of energy who are good at amusing themselves, they are really not as independent as they may seem. Cats cannot care for themselves, contrary to popular opinion, therefore, it is up to us to ensure that they live a long and healthy life.

Essential items you will need

Since it’s clearly our job to take care of what our cats need, here’s a little shopping list of basic items that no self-respecting cat should be without. Of course, you’re free to indulge your cat (and your wallet) with all the extra goodies available. We recommend that you obtain and prepare the following items before you bring you new kitten home.

First, you will need a Cat Carrier

This is essential for trips to the vet – and while a standard cardboard box may be suitable for short trips, it isn’t very durable. Even if it’s just to take your cat to the vet once a year for a check-up, you need a carrier; at the very least, it’s not safe to let Kitty roam freely in the car while you’re driving. There is a large variety available so you can get a canvas carrier or a hard-sided one, as long as it’s sturdy and washable.

If you have more than one cat, you’ll need a separate carrier for each cat. What if there’s an emergency and you have to take all of the cats out of the house at the same time? That’s also why the carrier(s) should be stored someplace where you can get your hands on it right away–not on the very top shelf of the closet. A hard-sided carrier with the door left open doubles as a cozy cat bed, so you can store it right on the floor next to your bed.

Next, of course, a Litter Box

There are so many styles of litter boxes that picking one is almost as much fun as buying a new couch. Your first consideration should be your cat’s preferences. Is it big enough for Kitty to stand in it comfortably? Are the sides too high for her to climb in and out of the box easily? Does she seem to prefer the privacy of a hooded box, or the spaciousness of an open model? If the box is enclosed, is the entrance easy to get in and out of? It’s to your advantage to accommodate Kitty on this: If your cat finds her box uncomfortable or inconvenient, she won’t use it.

And you will need some Clean Litter

There are many types of litter to choose from, and all have their advantages and disadvantages. Ask your breeder because it is always best, at first, to use the same kind of litter the kitten has been using. After a time, if you wish, you can gradually change to one of your choice. Pick what works best for you and your cat (and please, do consider your cat’s preferences when you make your choice).

In some respects daily defecation is dependent on the frequency of eating. Usually however, a cat or kitten will have 1-2 stools daily. If that is not the case with your kitten, or the stools seem too loose or too hard, please contact your veterinarian. Whichever litter you choose, scoop out all the solid matter at least once a day and empty and thoroughly scrub the box often. How often depends on what type of litter you’re using, but a good rule to follow is that if you walk by the box and it smells, it’s time to change the litter. Fine, sand-like clumping litter is not recommended for young kittens. Young kittens often eat litter or lick it off their paws or rear ends while cleaning themselves. Clumping litter particles have been known to expand inside their stomachs forming a mass that can lead be lethal. Do not use clumping litter, young kittens lick their paws and will get diarrhea.. Wear gloves to do this and wash your hands thoroughly afterward.

Make sure that you don't make the mistake of getting a tiny litter box, just because you have a little kitten! Kittens grow quickly. Get a "big kitty's" box.

Scoop (for the poop)

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Next is Food & Water Bowls

Kitty needs her own dishes that are just for her. The best dishes are glass, ceramic or stainless steel, because these surfaces can be cleaned very thoroughly; plastic is porous and can trap odors and bacteria. Some cats also develop acne on their chins from using plastic dishes.

If you have more than one cat, get each puss their own food dish. A water dish can be shared. It should be low and flat, with a heavy bottom so it is not easily tipped over. And, as you do for yourself, wash all those dishes every day. Make sure they’re shallow enough so she can eat without difficulty. Make sure that your kitten has her own feeding and water bowls and that they are clean – cats, like the rest of us, don’t like to eat from dirty dishes. Always have fresh water available.

Keep them clean and wash them separately from the family's.

Cat/Kitten Food

Check with the breeder to see what she has been eating and read Feeding in this section. supply of food, preferably food designed for kittens. What makes a cat food a good choice? Cats are carnivores and need meat to survive. So the more meat in your cat’s food, the better. Look for a cat food that lists meat as the first ingredient. These foods are likely to cost more, but you also feed the cat less, so feeding kitty the good stuff shouldn’t break the bank.

Also, look for a statement on the label that the food has undergone AAFCO feeding trials to establish nutritional adequacy. This means the food meets minimum nutritional and digestibility standards set by the American Association of Feed Control Officers and has been tested in controlled feeding trials.

I recommend dry food, with an occasional treat of canned. Raw meats can give the kittens worms, and meats cooked with very much fat in them give my cats diarrhea. Bonnie Hunter, a Breeder here in Phoenix recommends using cooked chicken breast, with out skin or fat, as a treat. Feed a few very finely cut pieces of oven-baked or boiled, plain, dry & skinless chicken. She also believes in bottled water to prevent diarrhea. This would be especially useful when traveling to cat shows as water in other locations may upset their system. Your kitten needs a balanced diet in order to grow properly, and to keep active and healthy. All cats must have a meat-based diet, but fresh meat alone does not constitute a balanced diet for them. Kittens have even more demanding nutritional requirements than adults.

Young kittens need relatively large amounts of food in order to meet the demands of their rapidly growing bodies and hectic lifestyle. Their little stomachs, however, cannot hold much food at one time. They must eat several small meals each day, and their diet must provide all the right nutrients in a comparatively small volume. Ask your veterinarian about a suitable prepared food that fulfills a kitten's complex nutritional requirements.

Young kittens need up to four or five meals per day. As the kitten grows older, the number of meals should be gradually reduced so that, by six months, when she is about three-quarters of her adult weight, she can be served two meals per day. Kittens are unlikely to overeat, so the best rule is to let them eat as much as they want at each meal (within reason, of course). Here’s a good rule of thumb: leave the kitten’s food out for her for 20 to 30 minutes and then dispose of the uneaten portion. By the time she is eight or nine months old, she can be introduced gradually to an adult diet.

Clean Water is essential!

Cats don’t drink much, but they can dehydrate very quickly, so they need fresh, clean water available to them at all times. Wash your cat’s bown and change the water several times each day. You wouldn’t want to drink water that has dust and hair floating in it, and neither would your cat.

A Scratching post is a necessity!

A scratching post. to discourage her from using your furniture or curtains for this purpose. The first thing you need to know is that a cat MUST scratch. So you must give Kitty an acceptable place to scratch. If you don’t, she’ll pick an unacceptable place, like your couch or curtains. Understanding the reasons why cats scratch will help you decide what to buy and where to put it. The first reason is that they need a manicure. Pulling their claws through a rough material rubbs off the dead outer sheath to reveal the new growth underneath. That tells you the surface of the post must be rough and nubbly. Some cats prefer more than one surface testure – your own nail file has two textures – and many posts come with a carpeted part and a section wrapped with rope The second reason cats scratch is to stretch. Kitty will stand on her hind legs, anchor her claws up above her head and then stretch out her spine. That means her scratching post must be tall enough so that she can reach up above her. Some cats also like to scratch while lying down. You know you have a horizontal scratcher when your cat scratches rugs, cushions and other flat surfaces. The thir reason cats scratch is to mark territory. Scratching leaves both a visual mark and a scent marker, left behind by glands in the paw pads. Territory in the basement or inside a closet is not worth marking, so if you’re planning on hiding the scratching post, it won’t work. Cats mark favorite resting spots and entrances and exits. So what does this all add up to? You need a scratching post with a heavy, sturdy base, so it will nto tilt or fall when Kitty uses it, and a variety of surfaces, including ahorizontal surface and a vertical surface tall enough for your cat to reach up and get a good stretch.

Claw (nail) Clippers

Nails (claws) that are not cut can grow so long that they curl up into the cat’s pads. They can also snag on bits of carpet or fabric, damaging your cat’s feet. And even during innocent play, a cat with untrimmed, razor-sharp claws can unintentionally give you a lot of nasty scratches. Nail clippers made specifically for cats work best. The clipper type works like a pair of scissors and has two blades shaped like half moons. With the guillotine type, you insert the nail into a small opening and a blade comes down and chops it off. Pick the type that feels most comfortable for you to use. The blades must be sharp or the cat’s nails will splinter rather than be cut, so you’ll have to replace the clippers from time to time. It is wise to keep the tips of the claws clipped flat with with a guillotine-type clipper. This is easy of the kitten was taught to permit it while still tiny. Be careful and take only the tip. Once clipped too short, causing pain, the cat may grow wary of having its claws clipped. Most cats keep their claws in good condition by climbing and scratching. Provide your kitten with a scratching post indoors, especially if you want to encourage her not to use your curtains and furniture for this purpose. Start clipping her claws and handling her feet at an early age – she will become used to it, and will be much more cooperative when she is an adult. Get your vet to show you how to do it to avoid any pain for your cat.

Brush & Comb

Start grooming your cat at an early age – get your kitten used to your brushing and combing her, and when she grows up, she’ll let you groom her with a lot less fuss and conflict.. Cats are naturally clean animals and will normally devote a lot of time to grooming themselves. There are bristle brushes and slicker brushes and rubber brushes and even gloves with little raised bumps to pull out loose hair. Different types of coats need different types of brushes, so it will be up to you to find out what works best for your cat. Your veterinarian can give you some good tips. Whatever brush you choose, a sturdy metal comb will help you remove the hair from the brush. Ideally, all cats should be brushed every day. With shorthaired cats, you can get away with doing it only once a week. Seem like a chore? Remember, the more hair you brush out, the less will end up on your clothes and furniture or as hairballs. Using their rough tongues, cats remove dead hairs from their coats which are then swallowed and passed through the digestive system. If a lot of hairs accumulate in the stomach, they form a hairball, which is usually – and quite naturally – regurgitated by the cat. Occasionally, hairballs cause stomach upsets and constipation. Long-haired cats are particularly prone to hairballs, and they need daily grooming to remove dead hairs and keep their coats free from tangles. Frequent grooming prevents hairballs from forming. Short-haired cats, too, benefit from being combed at least once a week. For long-haired cats, use a comb with long and widely spaced teeth. Comb away from the head in the direction of hair growth and tease out any tangles very gently from the root up. Ask the breeder or your vet to show you the best way to groom your kitten. While you are grooming her, take the opportunity to check the condition of her coat and skin. Look for any abnormalities, such as swellings, wounds, or evidence of fleas or other parasites. Also check that her eyes and ears are clean and clear and free from excessive discharge. Long-haired cats often have problems with weepy eyes, which need regular attention. If it is dirty, gently clean the eye area with a moist cotton ball, using a different swab for each eye. Seek veterinary advice if your kitten’s eyes are red or if there is a lot of discharge. Wipe soiled ears with a dry cotton ball. Don't delve beyond the ear area you can see, or poke anything solid inside – the ear is very delicate. A lot of dark wax in the ear might indicate the presence of ear mites. Ask your veterinarian for advice. He or she may prescribe special ear-drops to treat this condition. Although there are unlikely to be problems while she is still young, check your kitten’s mouth regularly so she becomes used to the procedure from an early age. Later, when she’s older, it will be much easier to brush her teeth or administer oral medication. As well, you can familiarize yourself with the normal appearance of your kitten's mouth: her teeth should be clean and free from deposits, and her gums should be a healthy pink color.

Toys

An assortment of non-toxic, non-digestible toys. Play is an important part of your kitten's behavioral development. Cats are playful creatures therefore a collection of toys will be beneficial, these can be quite simple and inexpensive; - a cardboard box with holes cut in it, scrunched up newspaper balls, table tennis balls, small stuffed mice…toy mice that is – these can be bought a pet shop or even Wal-Mart. There is a wide choice available. Be sure to choose toys that do not have loose or small parts that could be chewed off and swallowed. Mylar or feather "teaser toys" should be accessible only during supervised play. Your cat needs a variety of toys to keep her mind and her body occupied. Daily playtime with interesting toys is essential to your cat’s well-being. What’s interesting, of course, depends on the cat. Watch what she enjoys plaything with and what kinds of games she likes. Some cats like to chase little things you throw, some like furry toys, some love feathers. The best way to keep Kitty’s toys interesting is to rotate them. Put some toys away and bring out others; that way, old toys will seem new again and again. This is especially true for catnip toys, which lose their allure very quickly if you leave them out all the time. Put catnip toys down as a special treat once or twice a week, and put them away as soon as Kitty finishes playing with them. The catnip will retain its fascination longer when it’s not available all the time. And remember the even the best toys are only fun when you play, too. All these items are a good suggestion however experience has proven that humans are the very best toys.!!!