Bagheera/MillCreek Bengals Advice for New Breeders

Most responsible breeders will not consider selling a breeder queen to anyone except a TICA registered cattery that has a registered, pedigreed stud on site. Perhaps they would consider providing a queen to a new breeder if they have a partner with a stud. You should expect a reputable breeder will provide breeding stock only to those they get to know well and who share their own ethical standards.

Female cats in season (heat) will call (howl, scream) all hours of the day and night for several days at the time, stopping for a week or so and then go into heat again. Even if you are able to withstand the constant cat-tankerous noise, her behavior may began to grind on your nerves. You can expect that she will pee in the most inappropriate places – on you, your pillow, your couch and your freshly folded laundry. Until she is bred she will be miserable and she will make sure that you are, too! There are serious health risks involved in allowing a queen to go through repeated heat cycles without being bred. In my opinion, it is also cruelty inflicted upon the cat.

If you expect to acquire the services of another breeder’s stud cat, you may be in for a big surprise. Most breeders are far more interested in the health of their own cats, and the protection of their blood lines, than waiting eagerly to collect your stud fee. Even if you do find someone that will permit a queen to be brought in for stud service, you should expect your cat to be examined by their vet and tested for several possible infections all at your expense. Above and beyond the foregoing, you should be equally concerned about the health and welfare of your own cat.

****The very first thing you should do is rule out any medical problems that may be the cause. You will accomplish nothing if you try and correct bad behavior if there is a medical reason that goes unaddressed. Even if you think the cause is behavioral, you should consult your veterinarian.

You should suspect a medical problem if a cat that previously has used the litter box reliably suddenly begins inappropriate elimination. Some symptoms of a medical problem to watch for include diarrhea, appetite loss, lethargy, vomiting, or straining to urinate. Of course, hurry to the vet if you see blood in the urine or it has an unusually foul odor.

The vet will examine your cat for the possibility of urinary tract infection, side effects of medication, diabetes, constipation, arthritis, nervous system disorders, or muscular diseases and others.

Possible causes of elimination problems in cats (other than medical) may be categorized as either social or environmental stress.

The social factors that may contribute to inappropriate elimination involve any changes in the social circumstances of the cat. The following is a non-exhaustive list of changes to consider:

moving to a new home,
change in routine or schedule,
a new job or working hours,
a family member moves out,
a new member is added to the family,
addition or loss of other pets in household,
visitors, company, parties,
redecorating, construction,
commotion or confusion of any type,
return from boarding or hospitalization,
interaction problem with other pets or cats,
too many cats using same box,
access to litterbox is limited,
new furniture

The environmental factors that may contribute to inappropriate elimination may be easier to address than the social ones. It may take a little more though, some elbow grease, and a greater commitment on your part. The following is a list (not all inclusive) of possible displeasures your cat is expressing. Your cat may be displeased with the:

actual litter box,
litter material,
location of the litter box,
number of available litter boxes,
cleanliness of the litter boxes,
litter at the wrong depth,
change in type of litter used,
unfamiliar, frightening, or loud objects near box,
food and water too close to litterbox,
chemical used to wash or disinfect litterbox,
inconsistency in relation to any of the above.

As you approach this problem keep in mind that it is kitty who has a problem. Doing so will insure that the decisions you make will be much more likely to quickly resolve the problem. You need to think like a cat in order to change your cat's behavior. You can relieve the cat’s stress level and thereby change the behavior if you choose:

the right litter box,
the right litter material,
the right location,
the right number,
to keep it clean,
to be consistent

The following is some practical advice regarding each of the choices presented above.

The “right” litter box will encourage your cat's hygienic habits. If we think like a cat, then we will select a litterbox preferred by our cat. There are many types available and it seems that a new one is introduced every month. All litter boxes will track litter, although some less than others so it is inevitable that you will need to sweep up around the box.

So what are your choices? The most important thing is for you to provide a litterbox which meets you cat's needs so that she will like the box and use it consistently. Cats with mobility problems, such as young kittens, elderly cats, and injured or sick cats need boxes with low sides for easy access. Overweight and large cats need bigger boxes. Most cats tend to prefer an uncovered box because it allows odors to disperse and provides easy escape (thinking like a cat).

The Regular Litter Box is a plain box usually made of plastic and most often has a rectangular shape. These are easily obtained from a retain pet store, Wal-Mart, Target, etc. You can also just use any sturdy storage box, such as those made by Rubbermaid. You can get them with or without the top. If you use the top, then cut a round hole near the top edge for access by the cat.

Advantages include the cost which is less than the other options, the ease with which your cat can get in and out of, it takes up little room, and it give you easy access for scooping.

There are disadvantages, however. They include the discharge of more odor than the covered variety, litter can easily be scatter over the side, you could get some spills over the edge, and other pets and small children can get into the regular litter box as easily as your cat.

The Regular Litter Box with a Rim is just like the regular one except it comes a rim around the edge. The rim is designed to help keep the litter in the box when your cat scratches and digs. It can also help hold a plastic liner in place. A disadvantage is that it reduces the space inside the box for the cat’s use. Otherwise the same advantages and disadvantages cited for the regular litter box apply.

The Covered/Hooded Litter Box is much deeper and the have a cover or hood that goes over the top. There are several models and sizes commercially available. You can make your own cover from cardboard box by cutting an entry hole and placing the pasteboard box upside down over a regular litter box.

Advantages include the privacy for your cat that the hood provides, keeps the litter better contained, helps keep unpleasant odor at bay, presents few opportunities to "miss." waste is not in full view, and timid, shy cats may prefer it. Also, many cats will not show any preference for a covered versus an uncovered box.

The disadvantages include the difficulty to enter the box for elderly, ill, or young cats; it may not satisfy the cat's need for escape potential when eliminating; it traps the odor inside creating a "Porta Potty" effect; it may not allow sufficient room for a large cat to properly complete the elimination ritual; it may provide great opportunity for another cat to lay in wait and ambush when she exits the box; it takes up more room; it generally cost a little more, and it can be harder to scoop.

The Self-cleaning Boxes are technological miracles that when the cat leaves the box an automatic arm moves back and forth and moves the soiled litter into a waste compartment.. All you have to do is empty and wash the waste compartment. There are several models available and conflicting reports on their effectiveness. Probably, for those with only one or two cats, it can be incredibly convenient.

The one big advantage is that there is no need to use a scoop. The big disadvantage is the fact that it is the most expensive option; and some cats feel skittish about these animated boxes.

The Lift and Sift Litter Box is about the same size as a regular litter box but have a built in sifter. When you lift the sifter the soiled litter will be trapped in the sifter and the unsoiled litter will fall back into the box. All you have to do is pour it into a bag, dispose of the bag, and replace the sifter.

The advantages include the elimination of the need for a scooper. Among the disadvantages are reported awkwardness in use including difficulty in replacing the sifter.

Liners are an option for the litter box. They are usually made of plastic and come in various sizes. The litter box with a rim provides help in securing the liner.

Advantages include lengthening the life of your litter box, make it easier to clean up. Some disadvantages are that your cat could make a tear in the liner creating a big mess when you go to pick up the liner.

The right litter is one that appeals to the cat. Your cat won’t use litter that doesn’t have the texture that she likes If you could read your cat’s priority list you would find the selection of litter very near the top. You should expect that your cat would choose litter that is soft to the paw, absorbent, and because they dislike perfume, unscented.

Each cat may have its own personal litter preference, but then we also have preferences in what we want for them. It is a good thing that our requirements most often coincide with theirs. What we want is absorbable litter that is effective at controlling odor, and that is exactly what our kitty wants, too. However, what smells good to us does not necessarily smell good to our cat. And litter that is easy for us to maintain may not appeal to her. The result is that we often choose litter according to our own preferences rather than the needs of the cat. If only we would remember to “think like a cat.”

The selection of available litter material is vast and each has pros and cons. Litter may be generally divided into the two main categories of "clumping" and "non-clumping."

Clumping litter does exactly what you would expect, sticking together where your cat urinates. Before discussing the advantages and disadvantages let’s take a quick look at the controversy concerning clumping litter.

There is an ongoing debate about the safety of clumping litter. It has been suggested that the litter will stick to the cats feet, then when grooming themselves, swallow the dust and it turn to cement in the stomach and digestive tract. Mike Richards, DVM reports that an exhaustive review of the veterinary literature reveals no accounts of problems with the use of clumping litter by cats. It appears to simply be another urban legend.

One possible legitimate problem is that it is more likely that an asthmatic cat might have problems with the dust from the clumping litter. But for the general cat population, clumping litter does not seem to present a problem.

Advantages of clumping litter includes the ease of scooping used litter out of the box; much less odor because the odor causing litter has been removed; it is less expensive because less litter is used and thrown away; and the softer texture and smaller granules is much easier on the paws; and preference tests have shown the majority of cats prefer the sand-like clumping litter.

Some of the disadvantages are concerns that this litter can block your plumbing, therefore never flush it down the toilet; it is not recommended for kittens under the age of four months because the dust particles may get lodged in their little noses. When introducing a kitten to any form of litter be certain that you supervise it until kitty understands that it is not food, but the toilet.

Non-clumping litter is preferred by many breeders, rescue organizations and humane societies, most probably because of the dispute over the safety of the clumping kind. Thinking like a cat, if it is what kitty wants, then by all means, use it.

The major advantage of non-clumping litter is the low initial cost. Disadvantages are the need to scoop out solid waste every day and change the litter entirely and wash the litter box often.

Do not change litter types or brands once you find one your cat likes. Trying to be frugal by purchasing whatever brand is on sale is very likely to result in litterbox problems.

In business we often hear “location, location, location” indicating that where a business is located often dictates its success or failure. Location is just as crucial for your cat's litter box. If you want successful, consistent usage of the litter box take your clues from your cat. Your cat’s preference is really the one that matters. Even though kitty lives in the safety and comfort of your home, her survival instincts are imprinted on her brain. From her point of view these instincts dictate considerations for litter box placement.

Therefore, when you think about locating the cat litter box, think like a cat. Her choice would likely be a place that is accessible 24 hours a day, somewhat secluded and private, quiet, safe, and not near her food or water.

Access. Place the litter box in accessible areas, avoiding dark and distant places.
Privacy. Cats naturally prefer privacy when they do their business, so litter boxes should be kept away from areas where there is a lot of activity.
Quiet. Cats don’t like to eliminate in busy locations. Therefore, identify a place that is both accessible and away from the usual household traffic.
Safety. Cats live in a sensory world much different from ours. With sight, hearing, and smell senses that are much superior to our, they see things, hear things, and smell things we can't. They are also far more sensitive to vibrations. These heightened senses when combined with the cats almost neurotic need to feel safe and secure can cause the slightest disturbance to send the cat scurrying away in fear.
Away from food and water. Cats won’t use a litter box that is too close to their food. We all know that cat urine is very strong smelling, but we may not be aware that it sends a clear message to the cat’s predators. It is instinctive for cats to keep their food, water, and bed away from potential predators, therefore they don’t want their urine smell to be anywhere near it. Another reason is the natural cleanliness means that cats won’t urinate or defecate near their food or water.
Another important point is to avoid having your cat experience an unpleasant event near the litter box. For this reason you should not medicate your cat in the room where the litter box is kept.
You should also avoid moving the box unless absolutely necessary. If you must move it, do so in very small increments.

Just how many litter boxes do you need? Feline behaviorists agree that the best "rule of paw" is one per cat, plus one. Providing a single litter box in a home with several cats is asking quite a lot. Shared litter boxes fill up fast. Even if you have only one cat, an extra litter box is a good idea. Some cats prefer separate boxes for urination and defecation so there should be two litter boxes available to her. Also, multiple boxes for multiple cats means that no cat can be prevented from using the box because it is already occupied. It is of note, however, that most cats will use any and all litter boxes available.

Have you ever stopped for gasoline and decided to use the restroom also? Ever find it nasty with urine and feces remaining un-flushed? Now think like a cat! The primary reason cats stop using their litter box is because it is not up to the cat’s standard of cleanliness. Remember, if the smell is offensive to you, it’s bound to be much worse for the cat. You should never put off cleaning the litter box because it’s an ugly chore and do not wait for the litter box to smell bad before cleaning it. Proper litter box maintenance benefits both you and your cat.

You should remove soiled litter from the box at least once a day and replace the litter and clean the box at least once a week. You should always wear gloves and wash your hands thoroughly when the job is done. When it is time to wash the litterbox, use very hot water and a mild dish detergent.

Disinfect the litter box and top (if any) on a regular basis to prevent disease. Bleach is a good disinfectant around cats, although you should be sure to rinse thoroughly and air out all the fumes. The smell of vinegar, bleach, or pine cleaners may cause your cat to avoid the box. Urine contains ammonia, so using ammonia will only intensify the smell. If you need a serious germ killer, use a 1:32 dilution of household bleach to water. Remember to dry thoroughly and let the litter box air out for an hour or so.

Typically cats don't like litter box liners although they may help keep the box cleaner.

Generally, it is best to fill the box with two to three inches of litter. You want enough for the cat to scratch and dig, but not so much that she spills it onto the floor. With this amount of litter the urine usually does not stick to the bottom of the litter box. Most cats do not like to use litter in where they "sink in" deeply. Some cats exhibit a preference for more or less litter, so observe your cat and make adjustments if necessary.

Inappropriate elimination is when a cat voluntarily urinates or defecates in any place other than an available litter box. This misbehavior is very unusual. Cats instinctively know to use a litter box and will happily use it in preference to other places. The failure of a cat to use a clean, conveniently located litter box is the symptom of a problem and not the problem itself.

The less you change a cat's routine, the happier she'll be and the less likely you'll get surprised with a little package somewhere else in the house. New and innovative litter boxes are introduced regularly and it is tempting to get one for kitty, but be careful. Sudden changes in the litter box, the litter, or the location can cause an immediate and disagreeable change in your cat’s elimination habits. If you really want to change the type of litter you use, make the change gradually and consider mixing a bit of the new type of litter in with the old. Every time you clean the box add a bit more of the new type until you’ve switched completely. Don’t use this method if you’re mixing a litter that clumps with one that doesn’t. They do not mix well.

Under certain circumstances, your veterinarian may recommend an immediate switch in litter to combat a house-soiling problem.

You can assure that your cat is fastidious and persistent when it comes to doing her business in one convenient place and covering it up so it won’t smell. All you need to do is to keep her healthy, select a litter box, litter, and location that she prefers. Fill the box to a depth that she approves, keep it clean and be very, very slow to change anything as long as all is going well.